Bicycle Bag and Basket

Bicycle Bag and Basket

Bicycle bag and basket for a short weekend bike ride, a commute or a long bike trip – every time there is a need to take something “on board”. Cycle bags are great for small personal items and baskets are great for larger ones. Stand out with these accessories – our store’s assortment is full of bike bags and baskets in different designs, colors, decorations and sizes.


Sometimes the rain catches us by surprise while on a bike ride. Fenders can be fitted to keep the frame and your own clothing out of splashes and dirt – they can be easily mounted on the bike (and just as easily removed) and protect you from the “waste” of wet weather and even from the consequences of an innocent ride into a puddle.

Also Read: Buying a Bike 

Gloves, sunglasses and helmets

Gloves are best for comfortable control of your bike while riding. They will provide a tight fixation of hands to the steering wheel in any weather and allow you to keep the ride under complete control.

To prevent the sun from causing discomfort and not affecting the safety of your trip, we recommend using sunglasses. They will protect you not only from the sun, but also from dust, sand and insects flying into your eyes at speed.

And, perhaps, if gloves and goggles are a recommended; but optional element of a cyclist’s outfit, then everyone needs a helmet every time they ride. The helmet should sit “confidently” on your head, and you should be comfortable in it. We highly recommend visiting our store and trying on the helmet before buying (always available for children and adults).

Bottle Cages & Flasks

Every cyclist knows that thirst is a faithful companion for active cycling. The presence of a flask or bicycle bottle easily solves the issue of quenching your thirst. And the bottle cage provides quick; and easy access to the bottle, keeping it in a fixed position throughout the trip. You can find your own version in our catalog.

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Buying a Bike

Buying a Bike

The essentials when buying a bike. To make your every bike ride comfortable and, most importantly, safe, it is important to equip your “iron horse” with useful additional accessories. In our list you will find both must-have and essential items, as well as simply useful and functional accessories for the cyclist that will make your every ride more enjoyable.

If you like long outdoor walks or just use a bike every day or weekend, you will definitely need:

Anti-theft bike lock

Surely, someday you will have to leave the bike unattended for a while. To prevent it from being stolen, any cyclist must use a lock. Bicycle locks differ in the way of protection: on keys or coded. Also, when choosing a lock, pay attention to its shape and material: chain, U-shaped, folding, silicone, cable. Consult our experts to find out which of the locks is the most reliable and suitable for your bike model.


Rear and front lights are a must-have for those who ride a bike in the dark, and even more so drives out onto the roadway. You must be seen by both motorists and pedestrians, just as you must see them. In addition, you can also use flickers and spoke lighting – there is never enough light when there is a question of your own safety. Pick up lighting

Also Read: Choosing Kid Bicycles 



If you often go to the store, to the dacha, to a picnic or on a bike trip, then you cannot do without a bike rack. When choosing a rack for a bicycle, be sure to check with a consultant for its carrying capacity and material. It is very important factor to consider, because storage is very important for bike.

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Choosing Kid Bicycles

Choosing Kid Bicycles

Generally speaking, for children aged three to four years, choosing kid bicycles with wheels measuring 14 ~ 16 inches, equipped with removable safety wheels on the sides – they do not allow the rider to fall on their side, losing their balance. In addition, the bike must be equipped with full-fledged protection on the chain in order to exclude the possibility of injury to the legs, as well as a foam rubber pad on the handlebars, which protects against head injuries.

Young riders between the ages of five and seven are relying on 18 ~ 20 inch low-frame bikes. As a rule, they are also equipped with a height-adjustable handlebar; and saddle, as well as for safety they have reflective reflectors and protective elements. In addition to this, it is best to give preference to “two-wheelers” with a combined braking system; for example, the front brake is hand, rim type, and the rear one is foot.

Also Read: Boy and Girl Bike Differences 



For children aged seven to nine, it is worth taking bicycles in accordance with their interests; for example, if a child rides exclusively in urban conditions, then a folding two-wheeler is quite suitable; and if he professes a more aggressive riding style; then it is better to persuade the choice already in the benefit of the mountain bike. The best options in this case are bicycles with wheels measuring 20 ~ 24 inches; equipped with hand brakes and protective elements.

Usually children of this age category bike ride not only in the yards and on playgrounds, but also outside them, which is why it is best to dress the child in additional equipment by purchasing knee pads, elbow pads, a helmet, etc.

In addition, young cyclists should be taught at least basic traffic rules: you can only ride on sidewalks, pedestrian and bicycle paths, as well as within pedestrian zones; do not interfere with pedestrians and other cyclists; when maneuvering, you need to give signals with your hands, indicating the direction; the carriageway must be cross only at pedestrian crossings, having previously dismount.

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Boy and Girl Bike Differences

Boy and Girl Bike Differences

Boy and girl bike differences is going to be explained in today’s article. Girls’ bicycles tend to be lighter and have different frame, handlebar, seat and other components. In addition, the “girly” bike can be equipped with various “bells and whistles” that do not affect the functionality, but give it elegance.

Boys’ bikes have a reinforced frame and more efficient braking system (considering the aggressive riding style of boys).

When buying a children’s bike, you should definitely take into account the height and complexion of the child – otherwise the elementary rules of ergonomics will be violated, which can lead to rapid fatigue of the little “rider”, as well as the occurrence of all kinds of diseases of the musculoskeletal system. Of course, you can choose a bike by age, based on the corresponding table:

But do not forget – not all children grow up in accordance with the average statistical values, which is why it is best to focus on anthropometric data.

Also Read: Choose a Children Bike 



When choosing a child’s bike, you need to remember about a number of important points, one of which – in no case should you buy a bike “for growth” (responsible parents altogether – change “two-wheelers” as the child grows up in accordance with his height).

When boarding a bicycle, the legs of a young rider should freely reach the pedals in the lower position. If it is not possible to adjust the seating height (for example, by raising or lowering the saddle); and the child still cannot reach the pedals; you should take a closer look at a “two-wheeler” of a different size.

For bicycles with a high horizontal frame, another rule applies; the distance between this very frame and the crotch should be 5-10 cm; otherwise, if you unintentionally slide off the seat; there is a risk of serious damage.

In addition, special attention must be paid to the position of the steering wheel – leaning to such a height at which the child will feel as comfortable as possible, and his knees will not touch his hands while driving.

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Choose a Children Bike

Choose a Children Bike

How to choose a children bike. When choosing the size of a child’s bike, you should be strictly guided by anthropometric data (for example, in no case should you buy a bike “for growth” if you do not want to harm the child’s health).

Bicycles designed for riding children can be conditionally divided into two groups – three-wheeled (for children aged one to two years) and two-wheeled (for young riders aged three to twelve):

the former are more suitable for the role of a toy or a kind, more functional analogue of baby strollers,
the latter are usually used as a vehicle (both for simple cycling and for sports).

Also Read: Storing Your Bike in Winter 


After a child reaches the age of three, it can already be transplanted onto a two-wheeled bicycle, however, additionally equipped with supporting side wheels (they allow the little cyclist to quickly master his “iron horse” and protect him from injury and damage), which are usually supplied with the child bike , but they are bought separately without any problems – so-called “four-wheeled” bicycles are obtained.

It is worth noting that children’s “two-wheelers” can be equipped with a parental handle, if necessary; but in this case it only acts as a pusher (that is; it provides the ability to accelerate or slow down the bike); and is attached to the seatpost. Such an accessory is more likely a “unnecessary manifestation of care” of parents for their child than a real necessity; except perhaps only in some situations – for example, when a small rider has just switched from a three-wheeled bike to a two-wheeled one; and it is still difficult for him to pedal on his own (especially on the slopes ). In the “two-wheeled segment”; bicycles are already structurally divided “by gender“; and not just by design (although they still differ in colors and, in many cases, in different patterns).

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Storing Your Bike in Winter

Storing Your Bike in Winter

Storing your bike in winter is a headache for many cyclists. Probably every bike lover knows that it is advisable to store the bike in a suspended state, so that the wheels do not touch the ground (so as not to crush the rubber).

And ideally – in a room with a constant thermal regime and low humidity (that is, in an apartment). Although, of course, you can store a bicycle in a regular garage in winter, if only you approach it correctly.
Remember that a bicycle, like any technology, loves to be taken care of.

Preparing to store your bike in winter


The bike must be thoroughly washed and dried. Inspect the bike for damage and wear. Winter is the perfect time for routine bike repairs.

Minor repairs

It is advisable to find a way to go through all the bearings on the bike and replace the grease. Remove the bicycle brake cables, put the switches in the position with the maximum weakened spring. Be sure to wash and lubricate the chain if you don’t want to see it rusty in spring.

First aid

Touch up or grease damaged bike surfaces. It is better to apply a layer of preservative grease on the chrome-plated surfaces of the bicycle – for this it is enough to wipe them with an oiled rag. This is important if temperature fluctuations are foreseen in the place where the bike is stored, but if the bike will be stored in an apartment, it is not necessary to do this.

Bike parts

For the winter, you need to remove all the power supply elements, if present. It is advisable to lightly lubricate the bicycle tires with glycerin (both outside and inside).

Also Read: Avoid Sunstroke When Biking 

Bicycle storage in winter


All elements of a bicycle made of polymers (rubber wheels, cable shirts and other hinges, grips) are harm by frost and ultraviolet light (balcony). This is not essential for metal parts of a bicycle.


High humidity (basement) is harmful for metal parts of a bicycle.

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Avoid Sunstroke When Biking

Avoid Sunstroke When Biking

How to avoid sunstroke when biking in the noon. A deceptive impression is created of a headwind while driving, and the sun continues to bake.

There are many tips for cyclists to follow to reduce the risk of heatstroke.

The most important recommendation is to drink as much water as possible. During the ride, the bike cyclist sweats, the fluid leaves their body. Insufficient water concentration increases the likelihood of overheating and heatstroke.

To improve your well-being while riding, you should first come up with a protection for the spinal column in the neck area. From time to time it is recommended to pour a small amount of water on yourself from above. With a small amount of liquid, moisten a rag and wipe the skin of the face from time to time.

Few know about this feature of the body, the ears remove unnecessary heat from the head. Professional riders recommend wetting your ears even more often in hot weather than your face or crown.

The most important recommendation is to drink as much water as possible. During the ride, the cyclist sweats, the fluid leaves their body.

Also Read: The Bike Steering Column 


Next Tips

It is important to remember the unexpectedness of heat stroke, in an instant he feels great, and after a few seconds he already loses consciousness.

You also need to remember that the most dangerous time is after 2 pm. The sun is no longer at its zenith, but the earth has managed to warm up, which increases the likelihood of heatstroke.
A bicycle helmet, thanks to its gaps, allows air to enter this area. Significantly less chance of getting heatstroke while wearing a helmet compared to headgear.

It is recommended to purchase a bicycle helmet with a sun visor, which completely covers the eyes from exposure to rays.

You also need to pay attention to sunglasses, which will maintain visual acuity. Another this is that you should choose high-quality glasses, otherwise the likelihood of disorders of the visual apparatus only increases.

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The Bike Steering Column

The Bike Steering Column

The bike steering column also most often has integrated closed-type bearings, so there is not much to lubricate there. Older bicycles (or cheaper models) may have loose bearings in these mechanisms, in which case it will not hurt to clean and lubricate them.

Bike shock absorption

If you have an inexpensive amo-fork installed on your bike, you need to wipe your feet from dust and lubricate well with silicone spray, swinging the fork with your weight. Ideally, for a good expensive fork, it would be a good idea to do MOT before the season, especially if the bike was stored in a damp place. If you know how to do it yourself, then the consumption will be only in fork oil.

Also Read: Take Care of Bike 



It is not worth climbing unnecessarily into the wheel hubs, because this requires cone wrenches and an understanding of what you are doing. Ideally, the wheel should spin in the air without noise or jamming, and stop in the nipple down position. If you feel that there is rust in the bearings of the hub, then it is better to give the wheels to a bike mechanic for preventive maintenance. Tires need to be inflated, because they will definitely be deflated during months of storage. At the same time, inspect the tires for any suspicious places: wire or thread sticking out of the cord, cracks, cuts.

Why cycling in the heat is dangerous

Many people underestimate the effect of high temperatures on the human body during cycling, in particular, when a person rarely rides a bike.

Many people underestimate the effect of high temperatures on the human body during cycling, in particular, when a person rarely rides a bike. The chances of getting heatstroke on a bike are high.

Riding a bike means staying in the sun for a long time, when the body is hot, it quickly overheats. It is possible to get heatstroke even at 25 degrees of heat.

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Take Care of Bike

Take Care of Bike

Today I’m going to show you how to take care of bike. First of all, remove the bike chain and throw it into a jar of acetone or white spirit, let it soak. Next, click the shifters to find out if the speed cables are rusted. It often happens that the cables are covered with some kind of white bloom from dampness.

It is recommend to remove the cables and pour multispray into the XTP jackets. In no case should it be lubricate with grease or something else. Check how the rear derailleur foot moves without load. This mechanism does not require lubrication, the main thing is that there is no dirt and rust.

The same inspection is require for the front derailleur. Shifters, as a rule, do not suffer from rust. Dry the chain, replace it and apply lubricant. All that remains is to adjust the forward and reverse speeds and the drivetrain is ready for action.

Bike brakes

If you have vibration racks (rim brakes) or disc mechanics, then everything is simple here – check for rust or plaque on the cables. You can blow XTP multispray from a can into shirts without even taking them apart. If the cables run smoothly and the handle does not stick on reverse, then nothing else can be done.

Check the condition of the brake pads, if the output is more than two-thirds, change it. In the case of vibrating racks, pay attention to how well the rim is cut. With hydraulic brakes, things are a little more complicate. Air can enter the system, especially if the bike has been suspend from the front wheel.

See how the brake levers are press, whether the free travel has increase, whether they are delay on the return travel, in these cases, bleeding helps.

Also Read: Bicycle Storage in Winter 



Lastly modern bike have practically no loose bearings in their mechanisms (they can be in wheel hubs). The carriage is make in the form of a non-separable cartridge; or external integrated bearings, and does not need maintenance.

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Bicycle Storage in Winter

Bicycle Storage in Winter

You can have plenty of bicycle storage in winter. But everyone of them have their own pros and cons. In this article we’re going to talk about it.


All bike element made of polymers (rubber wheels, cable shirts and other hinges, grips) are harmed by frost and ultraviolet light (balcony). This is not essential for metal parts of a bicycle.


High humidity (basement) is harmful for metal parts of a bicycle.
Guided by this, you can proceed as follows: wrap everything except the wheels; and the chain (it is not oversized and still removed) with plastic wrap and send it to the balcony for storage; and store the wheels in the apartment. The bike can be stored disassembled (in order to reduce the size) – remove the wheels (for separate storage), pedals, saddle and turn the steering wheel 90 degrees. In this case; the pressure in the inner tubes of the bicycle can be reduced (this will reduce the “passive” wear of the rubber).

If you can’t hang the bike, then you need to pump up the wheels about once a month so that it doesn’t turn out that the bike is standing on the rims; as well as spin the bicycle wheels half a turn so that there is no prolonged static load.

Also Read: Winter Bike Storage 

Preparing your bike for the new season

If your pet is lucky, and he stood all winter in the apartment, then all you need to do is pump up the tires and lubricate the chain.

If your pet is lucky, and he stood all winter in the apartment; then all you need to do is pump up the tires and lubricate the chain.

It is worse if the bike was stored on an unfinished balcony; garage or other place where it could be affected by dampness. Bicycle gears are full of steel parts and can rust in a few months of winter.

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Winter Bike Storage

Winter Bike Storage

The first thing needed to store bike in winter is a winter bike storage is a headache for many cyclists. Probably every bike lover knows that it is advisable to store the bike in a suspended state, so that the wheels do not touch the ground (so as not to crush the rubber).

And ideally – in a room with a constant thermal regime and low humidity (that is, in an apartment). Although, of course, you can store a bicycle in a regular garage in winter, if only you approach it correctly.

Preparing to store your bike in winter:


The bike must be thoroughly washed and dried. Inspect the bike for damage and wear. Winter is the perfect time for routine bike repairs.

Also Read: Maxxis Freeride for Bike 

Minor repairs

It is advisable to find a way to go through all the bearings on the bike and replace the grease. Remove the bicycle brake cables, put the switches in the position with the maximum weakened spring. Be sure to wash and lubricate the chain if you don’t want to see it rusty in spring.

First aid

Touch up or grease damaged bike surfaces. It is better to apply a layer of preservative grease on the chrome-plated surfaces of the bicycle – for this it is enough to wipe them with an oiled rag. This is important if temperature fluctuations are foreseen in the place where the bike is stored, but if the bike will be stored in an apartment, it is not necessary to do this.

Bike parts

For the winter, you need to remove all the power supply elements, if present. It is advisable to lightly lubricate the bicycle tires with glycerin (both outside and inside).

Thanks for reading this all about bike article that is titled “Winter Bike Storage”

Maxxis Freeride for Bike

Maxxis Freeride for Bike

Maxxis freeride for bike is a camera with an increased wall thickness of up to 1.2 mm is recommended for extreme skiing enthusiasts. designed for high enough loads. The Maxxis Freeride can be fitted in tires ranging from 2.2 to 2.5 inches. Here, there can be no question of any weight reduction, because all cameras weigh 292 grams, this is with the Presta nipple. Also available with Shrader nipple.

Maxxis downhill

The most reliable, so to speak, “bulletproof” bike camera, the use of which is oriented, first of all, in the most extreme and relief conditions by downhiller riders. Chamber wall thickness 1.5 mm, weight 465 grams, which maximizes the confident and stable movement during downhill. The Maxxis Downhill can also be use with reduced pressure. It is not even necessary to talk about resistance to breakdowns here, since this camera simply has no equal!

Also Read: Best Bike Camera


Bicycle chamber pressure

Let’s now consider such an important parameter as the air pressure inside the chamber. The pressure (bar) directly depends on which tire is install on the wheel of your bike. In order for the chamber to perform better and last longer, it is necessary to maintain optimal pressure in it.

Usually this parameter is indicate on the tire itself and may look like this: 2.0 – 5.3 bar; which means the minimum and maximum allowable pressure. Typically, for a hardtail, this range is from 2.5 to 3 atmospheres; and for double suspensions, the pressure can be increase to 5.

It is also important to remember that under-pump wheels are much easier to punch, and their roll-forward becomes worse, plus it’s harder to pedal. If the cameras are too pump, then off-road you will be greatly shake, and the passability will deteriorate. Therefore, when choosing the optimal pressure in the wheels, also take into account your own weight. The higher it is, the higher the pressure should be.

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Best Bike Camera

Best Bike Camera

So which is the best bike camera should you choose? Tire marking will answer us this question. For example, you see the following notation 26 x 2.10 (559 x 54), what does it mean? The first numbers indicate the size in inches and the numbers in parentheses indicate the size in millimeters. 26 (559) is the rim diameter and 2.10 (54) is the tire width.

Now, having come to the store, you can safely tell the seller that you need a bicycle tube with a Schrader nipple for a 26 x 2.10 tire, but that’s not all. There are also cameras for different uses and characteristics. Now we will consider all possible options using the example of Maxxis bike cameras. Types of bicycle cameras:

Maxxis Welter Weight

The simplest bike camera that will fit most buyers. The wall thickness is 0.9 mm, which is undoubtedly the best compromise between puncture resistance and weight. This camera model has the widest range of sizes for almost any type of bike – from 20 to 29 inches, and is also available with 45 and 60 mm nipples (Presta, Shrader).

Also Read: Bike Camera Chamber


Maxxis Ultra Light

These cameras have been specially designed for bicycles that take part in competitions and therefore have less wheel weight compared to urban, walking and extreme brothers. Due to the reduction of the chamber wall to 0.6 mm, it became lighter by more than 20% without loss of strength. The Ultra Light model is not produced in such a rich assortment, because weight reduction is relevant only for a limited range of bicycles, but nevertheless, this range will be quite enough for various tires.

Maxxis Flyweight

Bicycle camera for professionals. Extremely lightweight butyl tube on the market today with a wall thickness of just 0.45mm. It has been specially designed to reduce the weight of the wheel as much as possible. An ultra light flipper is also included with the Maxxis Flyweight camera, which will also save you a few extra grams. Available in sizes only with Presta nipples 700 x 18 / 25C and 26 x 1.90 / 2.125.

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Bike Camera Chamber

Bike Camera Chamber

Installing a bike camera chamber with such a valve is rather inconvenient, because first you need to unscrew the valve cap, then thread the valve into the hole, and only after reinstalling the cap can you pump the chamber. What can we say about checking the tire pressure! In the DV nipple, this was previously impossible, but today there is a solution in the form of a special valve from Schwalbe, which allows air to be released, thanks to which using the AIRMAX indicator, now it is possible to check the pressure in the tire.

If the valve in the Dunlop nipple starts to leak air, then it is necessary to replace the small rubber tube in it, which covers the inside of the valve. This tube is a consumable, therefore it is included with some repair kits. To replace it, you need to slightly wet the metal part of the valve and put it on until it stops, gradually scrolling it. Materials for making bike cameras

There are two main materials used in modern bicycle cameras:

Latex is a material used for the production of racing cameras, the main parameters of which are light weight and low energy loss (to the detriment of other characteristics). Latex chambers are made on the basis of natural rubber. Advantages: high elasticity and resistance to “snake bites”.

Butyl rubber is a purely synthetic rubber that is widely used in the manufacture of cameras designed for everyday use. Advantages: low cost, high wear resistance, good air retention.

Also Read: Types of Bicycle Camera


Bicycle tube markings

We have decided on the nipple, now we need to find out the size. All bicycle cameras must be exactly the same size as their wheel, but wheels can be completely different sizes. City and mountain bikes use 26 “wheels, children and BMX use 20” wheels. 29 inches can be found on road bikes and niners (bicycles with large wheels).

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Types of Bicycle Camera

Types of Bicycle Camera

Now let’s look at the main types of bicycle camera nipple, which are divided into:


Schrader – automotive nipple, also referred to as AV (AutoValve). The most common and popular type, it is made in the form of a threaded cylinder with a diameter of 8 mm. Its standard length is 40 mm, but sometimes even 60 mm is found. It is most commonly found in extreme sport bikes, mountain bikes and hybrids (except for racing and high-end models). The Schrader nipple is also used in rear shocks and bicycle forks.


Presta – “sports” or French nipple, has a cylinder diameter of 6 mm and is designated as SV (Sclaverand Valve). Today it is becoming more and more popular because it is the smallest valve of any bicycle tube. Its advantage is that it is 5 grams lighter than the Schrader and fits perfectly with racing rims. Presta nipples are available in various lengths from 40 to 80 mm.

Common in racing mountain, hybrid, cyclocross and road bikes. Also used in tubeless tires. To inflate the chamber, the finger-tightened top nut must be unscrewed. Care must also be taken when putting on / removing the pump because the top thin rod with the clamping nut on it can easily bend. Using the SV on wide bore rims is fraught with valve tearing, which is sheared off by the rim edge when braking.

Also Read: Choose a Bicycle Camera



Dunlop is a traditional nipple referred to as DV (Dunlop Valve). He must be remembered by those who had an old Soviet bike. Even in spite of its dilapidation, it, nevertheless, is still quite widespread in the world, but practically does not occur on real bicycles. Installed only on children’s and road bicycles. The Dunlop nipple has a diameter of 8 mm, but it can also be inflated with the Presta pump.

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Choose a Bicycle Camera

Choose a Bicycle Camera

How to choose a bicycle camera ? Hello! Today we will talk about such a thing as a bicycle camera, we will touch upon questions regarding how to choose it correctly, what points you should pay attention to when buying, what are the sizes of bicycle cameras and much more.

Since this article is most likely mainly read by novice cyclists, we will start with theory in order to sanctify this topic in more detail. But before that, I will give you an example of the most common dialogue in a bike shop between a seller and a buyer:

– Good afternoon! Do you have bike cameras?

– Hello! Of course have. Which ones are you interested in?

– Well, how are they? Regular.

Also Read: Biking in the Otradokamenka


Simple or Not

It’s not so simple, and as it turns out after communicating with the seller, there are many different standards and sizes, with which you will get acquainted in detail in this article. After studying this material, you will understand all these symbols and designations on the camera. So…

A bicycle tube is a thin flat tube made of rubber that is placed under the tire inside the wheel rim and is pumped with air through a metal nipple to the required pressure. The chamber itself is not capable of holding pressure, so the tire performs this task, which we will talk about in the next article.

The main parameters of a bicycle camera include:

Rim diameter
Allowable tire width
Nipple type

The nipple is a part through which air is pumped into the chamber with the help of a pump. Design nipples are of two types:

Rubberized. Less comfortable and less reliable than metal ones, therefore they are used mainly in cheap cameras. Such a nipple has a much higher risk of damage from the edge of the hole in the rim, and also a high probability of separation if it is inaccurately inflated.

Metal with thread. These nipples provide the highest reliability due to the fact that they have a locking nut that prevents the nipple from sinking and displacing during inflation. Accordingly, cameras with such a nipple are slightly more expensive (Schwalbe, Continental, Schwalbe, etc.).

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Biking in the Otradokamenka

Biking in the Otradokamenka

When biking in the Otradokamenka we ran along a “chic” track and we were lucky that it had time to dry out enough after the rain, otherwise it would have turned into a mud mess. Having replenished water supplies in an inconspicuous spring along the road, we moved along the embankment dam across the Kazak River, which separates two villages – Nikolayevka and Otradokamenka. The fishermen sitting on the shore were very surprised to see such a column of cyclists, and the local children on bicycle too. As it turned out, the dividing dam is not continuous and there are small drainage systems in it, because the current there is rather weak. There were few fishermen, probably as well as fish.

Also Read: Bike Ride Event


Beautiful Localities

After enjoying the local sights, we drove into the village and, having reached the first store we came across, made a stop, where we had a snack and took a breath after the bumps and climbing the hill. Next after a little rest, we moved on. After passing an unremarkable village, we got to Kozatskoe, where we visited the Nibulon grain terminal, located on the banks of the Dnieper, not far from the Kakhovska hydroelectric power station. I remember this place with a very good descent with a concrete surface, which leads to the terminal itself. Some of us have enjoyed rolling on it several times. From here we drove back to Novaya Kakhovka in a great mood.

This is how this wonderful day passed. We dashed off a little over 30 km – not a lot, but not a little. Well, we will continue, because summer is in full swing, so join us, we will be glad to everyone in our growing bike party. See you soon!

Thanks for reading this bike ride experience article titled “Biking in the Otradokamenka”

Bike Ride Event

Bike Ride Event

This bike ride event in Cossack, 16 people gathered, two of whom were on road bikes, which made me very happy, because all of us have ridden their cross country bikes before. All the participants were in a good mood and you could see from their faces how everyone was waiting for this bike ride. Yes, this is understandable, a new route, new places!

Our expectations were justified as soon as we left the Cossack. The local landscapes and the whole nature were pleasing to the eye, and the road did not tediously lead us forward, although it was not ideal. We overcame small and large holes even without paying special attention to them, and climbing the next hill, we were looking forward to a downhill with a breeze.

The Road Condition

The road also pleased us with the fact that there were practically no cars along the way and therefore we could afford to drive across the entire width of the asphalt pavement. Arriving in Nikolaevka, we began to look for a descent to the shore, which in the end turned out to be quite steep and rocky. But this did not frighten our road racers and they nevertheless overcame this slope with little difficulty.

The embankment pleased us with its beauty, but not with its comfort – cow cakes lay chaotically everywhere 🙂 and therefore it was difficult to call it a beach. Most likely it looked more like a watering hole for animals. Mosquitoes also made themselves felt. After taking a few photos, we did not linger here any longer and moved on, climbing a bumpy hill.

Also Read: Bike Ride and Work

Bike Ride Event

Having left on the highway, we moved in the opposite direction, only this time along the route through the center of the village of Otradokamenka. At the turn, going into the off-road jungle, we said goodbye to our highways, because on such a “road” they would only have to walk on foot.

Bike Ride and Work

Bike Ride and Work

Bike ride and work in New Kakhovka – Nikolaevka. Good day, dear friends! So we went to Nikolaevka, and on the second attempt, tk. it started raining on the scheduled Saturday, so we had to postpone our arrival to Sunday 22 June. During the rain, we were under the canopy of the Yunost cinema, where we talked and even made minor repairs to the rear wheel of a very respected person.

Sunday we were pleased with its good weather, one might even say that it was hot enough. It was immediately felt as soon as we started driving at a pretty active pace. We started at 17:10 on our route Novaya Kakhovka – Nikolaevka, which ran through the nearby townships of Kozatskoye and Otradokamenka.

Also Read: Steps to Glue Bike Tube


After the glue is dry, take the patch and press it firmly against the surface of the camera. You, of course, can feel like a vice, standing in this position for several minutes, or you can take a dumbbell, for example, and put the patches on top of the floor for an hour. When the whole thing is settled, you can remove the protective film on top of the patch and safely put the camera back into the wheel.

How to properly glue a bicycle tube?

Congratulations, you learned how to glue a bike tube yourself! As you can see, there is nothing complicated here and even a seven-year-old child can do this. Maybe someone will tell you that you need to sand the camera with sandpaper before applying the glue and that person will be right. Also, if he tells you that the glue should be applied only to the camera, and not to the patch.

Previously, I also cleaned with emery, but then I noticed that even without it, everything is glued with a bang. And I apply glue in the old fashioned way on both surfaces to be glued; for reliability, as my grandfather taught. In general, try it, you will succeed! Also, be sure to watch my video, which I shot especially for you; so that you understand everything as best as possible. Write to me about your result in the comments below. That’s all for now!

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Steps to Glue Bike Tube

Steps to Glue Bike Tube

Today im going to show you the steps to glue bike tube. First off:

Step 1

The first step is to get the tube out of the tire. Remove the wheel from the fork and disassemble the tire with special plastic blades, having previously released all the air from the chamber, if there is any left there.

Step 2

After you take out the camera, be sure to check the inside of the tire for any remaining thorns. To do this, walk in a circle with the fingers of both hands on the inner surface, there may be small thorns that are not always visible from the outside.

Step 3

Your next task will be to find and then defuse the puncture in the chamber. Take a household bowl at home and fill it with water. Then pump up the camera well and submerge it in the water. Rotate it slowly, starting from the nipple, and when you see air bubbles, pull out the camera and circle the puncture site with a ballpoint pen.

Step 4

After marking any puncture points, wipe the chamber dry with a cloth. Next, you need the following inventory:

Degreaser (96% alcohol, gasoline or nail polish remover);
Cotton wool or cotton pads;
A set of patches from a bike kit (this includes glue and patches themselves);
Match (needed for even application of glue over the surface);
Any heavy object (dumbbell, pot of water).

Also Read: Properly Glue a Bicycle Tube

Step 5

Take a degreaser, moisten cotton with it and then wipe the puncture site with it (remove all dirt and paste from the handle). Remember where the hole is and prepare the patch while the alcohol evaporates.

Step 6

Take the prepared patch and remove the protective foil from it. Apply a pea-sized glue in an even layer, spreading it evenly with a match over the entire surface of the patch. Do the same with the camera. Let the glue dry for 5 minutes.

You have read “Steps to Glue Bike Tube”

Properly Glue a Bicycle Tube

Properly Glue a Bicycle Tube

How to properly glue a bicycle tube ? Greetings, dear friend! I know why you came here – broke a wheel on your favorite bike after a good ride? Well, with whom it does not happen! Thorns, glass, nails, as well as other evil spirits come across to us on the road and sometimes presents surprises in the form of another puncture. But do not despair, in this article you will learn how to properly glue a bicycle camera, because there is nothing complicated about it.

Here you were driving yourself calmly enjoying active rest and the surrounding landscapes, drove onto a country road, not even thinking about the hidden “surprises” cunningly awaiting you somewhere down there. And now you go further, and at this time a thorn has stuck into the wheel, just like some kind of leech. After a few kilometers, or maybe meters, you begin to notice that something is wrong with the bike tube – it has become harder to pedal, control has deteriorated. Well, that’s sad, you got a puncture! I hope you haven’t forgotten to bring a spare camera with you, as it will take a long way to roll the bike.

Also Read: Gluing Led Strips on Bike Wheel


Well, let’s step back from the lyrics and move on to practice. What if you puncture your camera? Returning home, immediately inspect the tire of the wheel on which the puncture occurred. Most often, the thorn remains sticking out in it. If you find this infection, then carefully pull it out with tweezers, because if you break off a thorn with your fingers, it will be much more difficult to pull it out. Ok, done! Then we will act with you according to the step-by-step instructions offered below.

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Gluing Led Strips on Bike Wheel

Gluing Led Strips on Bike Wheel

We take our prepared battery compartment and gluing led strips on bike wheel three rows on the front side. Be sure to glue it so that the stripped pins are closer to the wire coming out of the compartment. Now, with a soldering iron, using flux and solder, tin all the contacts on the tape, then solder two thin wires, connecting them all the pros and cons.

Well, we have already done half of the work, and there is very little left. Next, you need to take an LED strip 15 cm long and cut it with scissors into 3 parts, 5 cm each, and then clean the contacts on one side of each piece with a clerical knife. When cleaning the contacts, be sure to observe the polarity – “+” at the top, “-” at the bottom.

Well, our headlight is almost ready, but there is still a little left. We need to cover the soldering points with silicone sealant. Take a small tube of silicone and apply it evenly at the seams perpendicular to the strips of the LED strip. Let it dry for a few hours, then place the crown in the compartment and secure it to your bike. Now you can use it.

Also Read: How to Install Tail Light


As you can see, we have got a not very complicated, yakriy and quite attractive rear light for the bike appearance. It is also pleasant that everything is done by hand without much effort and knowledge. I hope you like my idea. And even if you will not make yourself such an LED bike light, you can advise your friend or fellow cyclists. Perhaps this kind of homemade product will be useful to someone.

That’s all for me, and if you want, leave your comments below about improvements, modifications, or offer your own development of rear dimensions. If something was not entirely clear, you can also watch my video, in which I clearly show how to make a taillight for a bicycle. Thank you for your attention, see you soon!

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How to Install Tail Light

How to Install Tail Light

Hello to all cycling enthusiasts! In today’s article, I want to share with you how to install tail light with my little work, which you may be interested in. I know there are many ways to make something like this on the Internet, but I want to add my own design.

In general, now I will tell you how to make a tail light for a bicycle in a couple of hours without much difficulty. Yes, that’s how much time it took me for all this work. Well, let’s not pull the cat by the tail, let’s get to work!

So, first of all, let’s decide what you need to make a homemade headlight for your bike modification. All of this list can be ordered online or bought at a regular electrical store. I ordered it on the Internet, tk. I could not find some elements in my city. Here’s a list of what you’ll need:

Silicone LED strip – 15 cm.
Battery compartment with built-in switch.
Battery “crown” 9V.
Mount from the reflector.
2 small screws, nibs, nuts.
Thin wire for soldering – 10 cm.
Silicone sealant.

So, with the main components sorted out, now you need to prepare the tool for work.

Also Read: LED Sealant for Bike Wheel


Here is a list of everything you need:

Soldering iron from 25 watts.
Flux + solder.
Stationery knife.
Screwdriver (flat or curly, depending on the screws).
Pencil or marker.
Drill and drill bit 4 mm.
Now, after you have collected all this to a heap, you can start making an LED headlight for a bicycle. All work, for better clarity, I have broken down into several steps.

The Steps

Take your old reflector under the seat and remove the two-hole mount from it. Then attach this mount to the back of the battery compartment (where the switch is) and mark exactly in the center the positions of the future holes with a pencil or marker.

Thanks for reading this bike tutorial article that is titled “How to Install Tail Light”

LED Sealant for Bike Wheel

LED Sealant for Bike Wheel

Congratulations if you made it to LED sealant for bike wheel! But that’s not all. Next, you need to cover the soldering points with silicone sealant to protect them from water ingress when you ride in rainy weather. To do this, take a tube and cut a cap at the very top so that there is a small hole. This will allow the sealant to be applied evenly and accurately. An added bonus of silicone is its durability. When it hardens, it will perfectly hold the pieces of tape on the rim. Seal all contacts except the one that will be powered and allow the sealant to dry before proceeding to the next step.

Also Read: Sticking Led on Your Bike Wheel 

Installing the battery

Well, we have done the main work, all that remains is to solder and fix the battery compartment in bike wheel. First of all, we will fix it, and then we will solder it. The compartment with the installed crown must be secured with three plastic ties on the knitting needles immediately near the sleeve; approximately as you see in the photo below. After such a fixation, it will not go anywhere, even when driving at high speed and in holes (checked).

Having installed the battery compartment, we solder the “mother” power plug to its two wires, and the mating “dad” plug is soldered to the wires going to the LED strip. Do not forget about the polarity of the wires so as not to confuse them during soldering. You can do it without a detachable connection; but it seemed to me that it would be more convenient to change the battery. And instead of “mom-dad”, you can put electrical pads for wires. There is nothing special to solder here. On the one hand, we twisted the wires from the battery compartment; and on the other, the wires in the led sealant for bike wheel coming from the led strip. Well, that’s all.

Sticking Led on Your Bike Wheel

Sticking LED on your bike wheel – Sticking on the rim. We take the bike wheel rim, first it must be cleaned of dirt and, starting behind the first spoke after the nipple, we glue the first piece of tape. In this way, we glue the remaining 34 pieces one after another. When gluing, it is important to observe the polarity, because you can accidentally turn the piece over to the wrong side. Glue them so that they are exactly in the center between the two spokes, so that later, during soldering, the wires are not of different lengths. For increased reliability, take the glue “moment” and apply it literally a few drops at the joints of the tape with the surface of the rim. Now you can be calm and not worry that the pieces of the tape will fall off.

Also Read: How to Illuminate Your Bicycle Wheel 

Soldering the wires

After all 35 pieces of led tape are glued, all that remains is to solder them together with wires. Take a twisted pair cable and strip all insulation from it. Inside you will find 8 different colored wires. Pick any two you like. I settled on blue and brown, because they are not so conspicuous. I put the blue wire on “+”, and the brown one on “-“. You, for example, may have orange and green, respectively.

Now you need to prepare all these wires. Measure the distance between the pieces of tape and cut 34 pieces with wire cutters. blue and 34 pcs. brown wire, then strip them on both sides and tin with a soldering iron. When all the sections of wires are prepared, you can directly start soldering. Start soldering from the nipple clockwise, first one side, then the other. That is, you first solder all the pluses, and then all the minuses. The work is painstaking and will require perseverance and patience from you.